The Nomadic Vision

I didn’t plan Patagonia. It felt too remote, too expensive, and honestly too cold. But then I found myself in El Chaltén with a few layers, some snacks, and the kind of curiosity that gets you out of bed before the sun.

I visited in April, when the air was crisp, the trees were burning red with autumn colours, and the town was slowly emptying out for the season. That also meant fewer people on the trails and unpredictable weather, sun one moment, wind the next. Still, it turned out to be one of the most memorable parts of my trip through Argentina.

A Warm-Up Hike

On the day I arrived, I did a short walk right next to the village. It took about an hour and was a good warm-up after spending too much time on buses. The landscape already hinted at what was to come, open skies, sharp peaks, and that kind of vastness that makes you feel small in the best way.

Sunrise on the Way to Fitz Roy

The next morning, I started hiking in complete darkness. Not because I’m a hardcore hiker, but because I wanted to avoid the park entry fee, which is actually quite expensive (approximately 40€) , and catch the sunrise from the trail.

Both plans worked out better than expected. I hiked in silence with a headlamp, found a spot with a view, and had breakfast while watching the mountains light up. It was freezing, but peaceful.

The hike to Fitz Roy is one of the most popular ones in El Chaltén. Most of it is moderate, but the last kilometer is a real challenge. Steep, rocky, and endless. I struggled a bit, especially with the cold morning air and the fact that I hadn’t trained or prepared in any serious way. But when I finally reached the viewpoint, it was all worth it. Fitz Roy stood there like it had nothing to prove.

What made it even more special were the colors. April paints the landscape in deep reds and oranges, and the trail felt like it was glowing. I sat there for a while, just trying to absorb the stillness.

The Glacier Hike (and Accidental Sunburn)

The next day, I hiked to Laguna Torre, a trail that leads to a lake with a glacier behind it. I didn’t realize it at the time, but it was actually the first glacier I had ever seen in my life.

The trail crosses an open valley with beautiful views almost the entire way. It’s less steep than the Fitz Roy trail and felt more relaxed. When I reached the lake, I had a snack and then lay down for a nap in the sun. That nap earned me a sunburn on my face, which I didn’t notice until hours later. Apparently, glacier reflection and Argentine sun make a strong combo.

Still, it was one of those quiet, perfect travel moments. Just me, the wind, the water, and a glacier.

Things to Know If You Visit in April

• Temperatures change fast. Mornings and nights are freezing, but daytime can feel warm in the sun. Bring layers.

• The town is quiet but still has open shops and hostels. There is no need to book far ahead. I booked when I got into town.

• Trails are well-marked and easy to do without a guide.

• Sunrise hikes are worth it, especially to beat the crowds and fees.

• The red trees in April are incredible, and add something special to the already beautiful scenery.

Final Thoughts

I didn’t do a multi-day trek or camp out under the stars. I didn’t hire a guide or plan things down to the detail. I just showed up, followed the trails, and let Patagonia do the rest.

El Chaltén gave me stillness, a glacier, and one of the best sunrises I’ve ever seen. If you’re already in Argentina and wondering if it’s worth the long journey south, it absolutely is.